The People’s Republic of Mortimer is very much your modern, convenient lock-up-and-leave totalitarian state, so when this diary was suggested as a way of keeping homebodies in touch with the all-singing all-dancing excitement that is a political party conference, I had only to change the guard, cancel the milk and weaken the currency so that no-one would be popular enough to mount a coup while I was gone.
Our grand progress northwards was agreeably punctuated by a very kind man offering to buy us a sandwich (seeing that we were embarrassed for funds; it is an expensive business running a republic) and the most patriotically scouse train manager one could wish for: “This train will be calling at Watford Junction, Nuneaton, Stafford, Crewe, Runcorn and Liverpool – city of culture 2008 – Lime Street. Expected time of arrival in Liverpool – eight times European cup winners – is 12.47. On behalf of the driver, the crew, the trolley staff, the people in the shop and the fluffy mascot on the dashboard may I warmly welcome you aboard this Virgin Trains service to the greatest city on earth and assure you that we will be bearing you away from the dirty south as fast as humanly possible.”
Emerging from Lime Street station is a fine if disconcerting experience. Why, someone has picked up the Roman forum, rebuilt it at its zenith and plonked it down in the middle of a whirlwind of merciless relief roads! You can still sense, around Lime Street and along the docks in particular, the puffy pride of those Victorian grandees pretending they were Pericles, bolting on superbly extravagant civic buildings to what had formerly been a very ordinary if sprawling port city. The experience of sailing up the Mersey to dock at Liverpool must have been, to your average Irish famine victim for example, something akin to how arriving by ship at New York feels now.