The racial profiling had gone a bit wrong. We’d been walking along al Shuhada, a street in Hebron which is strictly off-limits for Palestinians, flanked by some nervous-looking Israeli Defence Force (IDF) soldiers, when one of them demanded to see some ID. He’d picked one our small group of British Lib Dems who was obviously of Indian origin. Our Israeli guide, ex-IDF himself, gently reminded the young soldier that as ‘internationals’ we had rights not granted to Palestinians.
Our trip to Palestine earlier this year lasted only six days, but as well as Hebron, we visited Ramallah, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, some outlying villages and towns, a Bedouin settlement threatened with demolition (but still there today), and a refugee camp for internally displaced people. You can’t learn everything about a country in such a short time, but whatever you read or see in the media, there is no substitute for being there and meeting the people. We were warmly received by the Palestinians we met – unsurprisingly, given that our (Liberal Democrat Friends of Palestine) stated aim is to campaign for the rights of Palestinians, although it is maybe just a little surprising when you consider the past role of the British, exemplified by the Balfour Declaration in 1917, and our hasty departure from Palestine in 1948.
The context for our journey was provided on day one, at the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA). As well as working to improve the lot of the Palestinians, they collect data on casualty numbers on both sides of the ongoing conflict, and they showed us on a series of maps the steady decrease in the land occupied by Palestinians, due to the illegal (under international law) settlements in the ‘Occupied Territories’.
The West Bank and Gaza were overrun by the IDF in a brief war more than fifty years ago, but are still subject to martial law. We visited Military Court Watch, which independently monitors court proceedings when the accused are young Palestinians (under 18). Typically, the charge is throwing stones at settlers, for which the penalty is usually several months in prison. Around 200 children were in Israeli prisons when we were there; military courts operate differently from civil courts, and although evidence is not always available, the conviction rate is 99%.
Sometimes our guides were Israeli Jews who were out of step with the current right-wing Israeli government, and they and their Palestinian counterparts impressed us with their calm determination to see their land freed from conflict. One thing they all stressed was the effectiveness of the Boycott, Divestment, Sanctions (BDS) campaign. The views and support of the outside world really matter.